Shinkansen Series 700 "Nozomi"

I rode the Tōkaidō Shinkansen from Osaka to Tokyo after graduating in 2000. I was visiting my friend in Kobe. The model of this particular Shinkansen is the Series 700 easily identified by its duck bill shaped nose. It was later replaced by the N700 in 2007. Johnny also brought the newer model in as part of Hobbytech's product line, but I showed restraint and just bought the Series 700 because it was the one I actually rode on. I can still remember standing on the platform and feeling the rush of air as the bullet train raced through the station. I thought people standing on the edge of the platform would be swept away, but there was no worry. The stations are designed to accommodate the increase in air pressure caused by the bullet trains. I believe the majority of the Shinkansen stations are elevated as well as the tracks in major urban centres. The other thing I remember was that interior of the Shinkansen had small cabin windows like large passenger aircraft. ICEs on the other hand have spacious windows.

This N-scale model train is built by Kato. Same manufacturer as the E4 Max I purchased earlier this year. The detailing is very good though this particular Shinkansen isn't as stylish as other Shinkansens. The only criticism I have is the material used for the couplers, which is made of hard plastic. I only wish Kato would consider using metal instead. I have a big fear that the plastic coupler might break off. I cringe whenever connecting and disconnecting the cars.

Argh!

I was reviewing the ceiling arches I made last year and discovered the joints where the solvent was applied has made the styrene less flexible. In fact, it has become brittle so I can't bend them without breaking. I wasn't aware of this characteristic when styrene combines with solvent. Now I have to design a new ceiling structure for the platforms. A set back to my grandiose plans.

Platform update

A quick update on my platforms. I finished adhering the last rib to the sixth and final platform tonight. As stated, I managed to work on one platform each night this week. It went fairly quick. I forgot to mention in my previous entry the use of a cross action curved tweezer. A must have in any tool box. As you can see in the photograph, the ribs do not extend all the way to the bottom. I left a gap for the cork underlay.

Design of the railway station starts tomorrow. I'm leaning towards a modern looking building with a front facade composed entirely of glass like the Köln Hauptbahnhof. Fortunately, Evergreen manufactures transparent styrene plastic sheets. I'll use these for the windows, however, I'm not altogether sure how it'll work out as the sheets are very thin. Because of this, they are very flexible and will need to be made rigid. If only I could find a kit that suited my architectural requirements. A pre-manufactured kit would save me months of work. I estimate that it will take me at least that long to design and construct my own custom station. The curved roof structure will be the trickiest to pull off, but it'll provide more visual stimulation to the layout.

Platform revisited

I was motivated to work on my custom railway platform after having seen some of the displays at the train show. One of the exhibitors had used a small miter box to cut multiple strips of balsa wood to equal lengths, I decided to try it with plastic. I always thought my platforms were a little plain looking and needed some additional architectural detail. So I decided to add ribs to the sides of the platforms. However, I was not keen on cutting strips of plastic. I couldn't imagine myself measuring and cutting 1020 ribs. However, the miter box was a real time saver. I secured a metal barrier on one edge of the miter box so I could press the strip of plastic against it to ensure each cut would create the same length without having to measure each time. You can see how I set it up in the photograph. Originally I used a saw to cut the plastic. This created a ragged edge, which I had to sand down. I found using an Exacto knife created a very clean edge. However, the slots on the miter box was a little too wide so I used two pieces of cardboard to keep the blade firmly in place and at right angles. It worked like a charm. I simply pressed down to score the plastic strip and then simply snapped the rib off. I figure can finish one platform per night. Hopefully I'll be done by the week-end.

Railway station

I was at Hobbytech this morning to pick up my order of curved viaducts. I just need a few more Kato parts to complete the track. On back order are the double track piers, 282mm curved ground track and two more plate girder bridges. As I wait for the remaining unitrack parts to come in, I've begun acquiring structures for my village. Johnny had the Cornerstone Santa Fe style brick depot with freight house. Regularly priced at $55, it was on sale for $28. I couldn't resist. Jurgen said I could paint it to make it look European. I'm considering painting the brick wall a light tan to mimic the color of sandstone. I think the roof will be a green patina to look like aged copper. And the window trim will be painted to have a medium wood tone. I hope I can do a good job. Painting is not my strongest suit.

I came across some figures on the internet. Noch makes dairy cows in n-scale. I think they would go great with my windmill. I'll also need to get some passengers for the rural platform. The next structure I'd like to add to the layout is a cathedral. I'm leaning towards getting the Kibri Romanesque cathedral model 7025. I'll probably place an order with Johnny in a few weeks depending on the price. There's a vicarage made by Vollmer that might go well with the cathedral. However, I'll wait and see how the station and the cathedral look together before I invest in any more structures.

Super Trains 2010

Here are some photos from the train show. Seeing all the amazing layouts gave me inspiration to continue working on my layout.

A coffee table layout.

I like the windmills in this layout. I'm considering putting a windmill in my layout surrounded by cows. It'll remind me of my travels through the Netherlands. Mmm... smoked gouda.

This was my favorite train layout built in OO scale. The size of the table isn't very large, but there's a lot of detail. Peter Johnson put a lot of tracks and buildings on his tiny layout, but it doesn't seem congested at all. I especially liked how he put a brewery next to a church and managed to fit in a canal. He did an amazing job.

Here's an example of a large scale mechanical reproduction. I didn't bother to ask how much it cost.

Many modelers incorporate water into their layout. This layout was built by the Calgary British Railway Modelers (CBRM).

The color of the water in this layout caught my eye. I may elect to do something similar with my layout. That reminds me, I need to pick up a few more plate girder bridges from Johnny next week-end.

Cool bridges.

In addition to trains, there were a lot of exhibitors showing off their modeling skills.

Here's a fellow making his own tracks. That's what I call patience.

And finally, the Calgary Eurorail Express club layout and a few members' personal layouts.

Platform lights

I came home from work Friday night to discover my shipment of Brawa lights had arrived. I had ordered model #4643 and as it turns out, it was a good choice. I ordered ten lights on the premise that I would have ten sections that required lights. However, last night I re-configured the ground track again and shortened the platform. I will have a few extra lights in case I need replacements.

I'd like to mention that there are some imperfections with the lights. Most notable is how the hood is mounted. Some are crooked, but at N-scale, it's difficult to see. However, I do like the fact that the pole and hood is made of metal. As with all LEDs, there is a resistor attached to the light to limit the current. I'll have to find my electrical engineering book and check the ohm rating on the resistor because I don't think the reading on my circuit tester is reliable. However, I did use my circuit tester to perform a continuity check. I didn't on the first install and had to uninstall and check the light. After that, I checked all the lights before attaching the light to the platform.

I discovered that the LED bulb has a single wire connected to it with the resistor at the end. The single wire slides into the pole. The bulb rests in the cradle which is also metal and is soldered to the pole. Soldered at the bottom of the pole is the other wire for the opposite polarity. I'm not sure if this design is typical of all lights. I do know that the LED bulb is sensitive and I have to make sure that the bulb rests firmly in the metal cradle to get the proper contact.

Before I could attach the light, I had to prepare the platform. I had to drill a hole large enough for the resistor to fit through from the top to the underbelly of the platform structure. For this, I used a jeweler's hand drill. I picked up mine at Lee Valley. It's great for delicate work like this and cheaper than a drill press. With such a large hole I'm glad Brawa added such a large base. It covers the hole quite adequately.

Once the platform was prepared, I pulled the wires and resistor through the hole and proceeded to attach the base of the light to the platform using rubber cement. It does the job and allows me to remove the light in case I have to replace the LED. Hopefully I won't have to do that. I'll have to check if I can buy replacement bulbs. I have a feeling I'll burn out a few bulbs while wiring the lights to the power source. I connected the leads of one light to an AA battery, but it didn't light up. The little pamphlet that came with the product provides a brief description, but not for the 4643. Brawa definitely needs to improve their quality control. As far as I could make out, it appears that I'll need an A/C source. I'll have to ask Hans for some help. He wired all the lights in his passenger cars so that they don't flicker, which is no easy task.

Since it takes a few minutes for the rubber cement to dry I used my small clamps to hold the base of the light to the platform until the cement dried. The adhesive quality of the cement is not as strong as I would like. The slightest nudge will dislodge the light. I'll have to be careful when handling the platform. If left untouched, I think the rubber cement will be sufficient to keep the light in place.

There is a shallow cavity on the underbelly of the platform that allowed me to house the extra length of wires and resistor. I used rubber cement to adhere the wire to the underbelly. I think masking tape would have been better suited for this, but I didn't have any so I elected to go with the cement. It works, but it's messy.

I really like how the lights complement the rural platform, but they appear too tall next to the roof sections. Now I just have to wait for the remaining lights on back order to arrive. I was quite surprised how easy it was to mount the lights. I definitely found it meditative working on my platform after a long week at the office.

I need my fix man

I informed my director that I was leaving work early today to see my dealer. I needed more tracks for my model train layout. He rolled his eyes and walked away. In all honesty, it is a serious addiction. I wanted to head over to HobbyTech to pick up the extension set for my rural platform. I wouldn't be able to buy anything this week-end on account of the train show. With the extended platform, I'm now considering the addition of a station. Kato has a rural station that fits with the platform set, but the station is too Japanese centric. It would be perfect for running the Shinkansens, but inappropriate for my European rolling stock. So I am on the look out for other station buildings. I currently have my eye on a Faller freight station. Vollmer, Faller nor Kibri had any passenger stations that matched my rural platform. Oddly enough, I came across Walther's Santa Fe station that might work out. They also have the Pella depot as another alternative. My concern is whether it will give the layout a North American feel. I've got time before I decide. I'm hoping to get some good ideas from the train show this week-end.

Kato rural platform

I finally got around to assembling the rural platform and extension set this week-end. I originally thought that I would have to use adhesive, but it turns out that all the pieces are assembled together with screws. There's a lot of small peripheral pieces like lamps, station intercoms, electrical telephone poles, fences, signals, etc. I elected to work on the platform for now. That's the primary reason why I bought this structure. There are plastic lamp poles, but I did not put them on the platform. I'm considering using lighted platform lamps later on. I like the Brawa #4643. I think they would match the platform very well.



I started with the roof sections. They were fairly easy to assemble as there were only four pieces per roof section. The length of each section is 124mm. Two came with the rural platform and two with the extension set. I really liked how they designed the pieces to fit together, but I'm not entirely keen on the plastic Kato uses. The plastic seems fairly brittle so I'll have to be extra careful. I've already broke a piece off one of my catenaries.



The platforms took a bit more effort to assemble. The platforms with the roof sections needed more attention. I had to drill holes in the platform to attach the roof sections. I used the needle off my compass to penetrate through the surface of the platform. I used my small cylindrical file to enlarge the holes until the posts fit.



To get to the other platform, passengers have to cross the tracks. There are ramps at the ends of the platforms. Kato also provide a set of stairs that allow passengers to get down from the platform to track level. These can be placed in the middle of the platform, but I had to cut out a section of the platform to accommodate the steps. I didn't do a very clean cut, but it works well enough for me. Besides, the roof section will partially obscure the view of the steps should anyone want to have a closer look.



The rural platform is 1" wide which is narrower than the suburban platforms as the pedestrian traffic is less congested. The original plan was to have only a pastoral setting for ICEs to speed through, but with this new layout design I can add an additional table up against the rural platform. I'm trying to figure if I can include a cathedral. I've got my eye on the Kibri Romanesque cathedral (#7025), but it may be too big.

Each platform is 744mm in length not including the ramps. I was thinking of getting another extension set, but it appears that won't be necessary. My platform is long enough to accommodate my DB Regio or the LINTs that I have on order. Hopefully my concrete piers and 348mm 30deg viaducts come in soon.

Sigh...

I thought I had my Kato layout figured out, but I couldn't reconcile how to connect the ground track at the end of the station platform. It was troubling me as I didn't want to create a loop back to the station. I only wish that Kato had a 448mm radius curve track. It would have allowed me to have a dual track looping around the elevated tracks. I suppose I could use Minitrix flex track, but it would not match the Kato unitrack. Sitting up late one night, I opened up xtrkcad and started brainstorming. I came up with a different layout reusing the 744mm x 302mm plywood table tops I already had cut. The new layout still has a long viaduct section to run my ICEs at speed. The new layout is a little shorter than the previous design. The only criticism I have about this latest design is the symmetry. However I think I can disguise the symmetry with appropriate landscaping. I still have more unitrack parts on order. That's why the track isn't complete.

Layout #3

Christmas in March

I thought I would try my hand at making peposo. No it has nothing to do with trains. At least not directly. Peposo is an old Italian dish that originated in the Tuscany region. The dish is similar to beef stew consisting of beef shanks cubed with copious amounts of cracked peppercorn, fifteen cloves of garlic and half a cup of red wine simmering over low heat in a slow cooker for twelve hours. You heard right, twelve hours. Originally invented in the city of Impruneta by workers spending long nights tending the terracotta kilns. They simply threw all the ingredients into the oven and would leave it unattended overnight. So what does peposo have to do with trains? Nothing, but I figured I could get this dish started and walk away from it to work on my train layout without fear of burning dinner. Well, actually breakfast considering I started it at 6pm and it won't be ready until morning.

My Kato orders finally arrived. I went over to Hobbytech to pick up my long awaited unitrack parts and structures. Rural platform, extension sets, park & parking lot, and more unitracks. There's still more to come. I think I figured out the ground level track layout. I've got it as a single track looping around the outside of the viaducts while still managing to have one track running under the trestle bridges. Unfortunately I've run out of room. It looks like I will have to push my work table back a couple of feet to accommodate the ground level track. I've posted a video of the layout along with the unboxing of the rural platform set along with the extension and park/parking lot set. Unlike other Kato structures, the rural platform and extension set needs to be assembled.

Layout #2



Kato 23-130



Kato 23-131



Kato 23-418

New Kato layout

I came across several web sites of modelers who use Kato exclusively. One of the primary reason was the reliability of the Unitrack. I have never encountered any derailments or connectivity issues and the turnouts operate flawlessly. My initial reason for purchasing Unitrack was the ease of setting up and taking apart the track. I only wish the ballast was darker in tone. Aside from that, I'm pretty happy with Kato. There were two sites, Quinntopia and JRM who gave me inspiration to rework my Kato layout. It had never occurred to me to have two different levels of track independent of each other. The higher level would be represented by the elevated viaducts and single ground tracks placed at the lower level. I've been mulling over my original Kato layout for the past couple of weeks now. I still want to have long sections for running my high speed ICEs, but run slower passenger service trains like the LINT for rural service. I placed an order for two LINTs from Hobbytech. I think the track layout for the viaduct level is finalized, but the ground level tracks still need work. I want them to loop continuously without manual intervention as I am still far from being DCC ready.
With this particular layout, I plan to create modular tables 744mm x 302mm. The length conforms perfectly to three straight 248mm tracks. By going with this unusual dimension, I can extend the track simply by adding a table on each side. You can see this in the plan as it shows the right side of the track extended by adding three more 248mm straight viaducts. In the photograph, I didn't have enough straight viaducts to extend the right side of the track. I'm planning to go to Windsor Plywood and get a sheet of 5' x 5' x 3/8" birch plywood. Cut into one foot widths, I'll have enough to cover the straight sections of the layout. Since I don't have a table saw, I'll have to get them to cut it for me. For the S-curves, I'll cut those table tops with my jigsaw.

What does this mean for my railway station layout? I still plan to complete it, but its construction is on hold right now. The idea is to be able to connect the railway station layout to this Kato layout. There is a possibility of linking one of the lines from the railway station to the Kato lower level track. The only question is how to get the train up onto the higher level tracks.

Shinkansen Osaka to Tokyo

I managed to get the viaducts set up into a herring bone layout. Here's the video of the train running at full speed. You can compare this with the other video I posted a long time ago running my ICE1. It is a little slower than I had observed at Hobbytech because I'm hauling four extra passenger cars.

I mentioned that Minitrix locomotives run silent compared to the Kato. However, Kato has better quality tracks. The turnouts work flawlessly and the setup is fast and easy. Their main market is Japan. As a consequence, space is a luxury most customers do not possess. A lot of people live in apartments so they set up their tracks to run their trains for a few hours and then take apart for storage. Kato Unitrack is virtually maintenance free. Yeah, its a little bit more expensive, but it's worth it. Like I said before, you get what you pay for. And most of their products are made in Japan, not China. That's a huge plus for me.

Oh I just placed an order for two more Shinkansens. A N500 Nozomi and a Series 700. The only other high speed train I need to complete my collection is the TGV. Unfortunately Kato produces that for Lemke and according to Johnny, they aren't responding to his queries. I guess they don't care about North American customers. If only Minitrix would release a TGV version, I would get it.

Off the wagon

It's a sickness. It's been awhile since I had visited Hobbytech. I've been busy working on a game for the iPod hence the lack of updates to the blog. Since I was doing errands in the area, I thought I'd drop by and say hello to Johnny and the guys in the club. And maybe pick up a viaduct track piece. I was expecting to spend no more than $10. Instead I walked out of the store with a Shinkansen train set. Talk about impulse shopping. Johnny had one running on his short oval track. I couldn't believe how fast it ran. It's twice as fast as my Minitrix ICE1. He hooked, lined and sunk me. I couldn't resist and bought it along with the expansion set. I couldn't have a Japanese bullet train with only four cars now could I? Of course not. The problem is that I haven't had the time to play with my other trains or find time to work on my railway station layout. So what possessed me to add to my dusty collection? Not sure, but I know this won't be my last Shinkansen.

I'll have try to find some time to set up the tracks and run it at full speed. Video to follow. This is my first Kato train set and I am quite pleased with the quality. Their atttention to detail is very good. I'd say it's almost at the same level as Minitrix. The one thing that Minitrix does better is their motors. Minitrix motors run silent whereas the Kato motor has a slight hum, but it actually gives it some realism to the Shinkansen. I rode the Series 700 when I visited Japan in 2000 taking me from Osaka to Tokyo. It has a similar appearance as the E4, but it was not a double decker.

Interchange

I managed to get the last turnout and assembled the interchange that connects to the railway station platform. Anselm had picked up two left R4-15 degree turnouts from Germany for me. I just couldn't wait until November. That's when Minitrix is starting up their production run. Since Marklin went into receivership, parts are in short supply in North America.

I used the XtrackCad software to figure out the necessary pieces without having to cut any track. Unfortunately the dimensions of the Minitrix track pieces in the software weren't correct so I had to measure it with a ruler and figure out the pieces manually. As a consequence, I'm going to also measure the full length of the interchange before I construct the table. Speaking of the table, I think I'm slowly converging on the overall design of the tables. It's a little complicated involving single pass and sliding dovetail joins. Since the train layout has an architectural theme, I thought the construction of the table should be like a nice piece of furniture to complement the layout. Right now, I'm checking out various dovetail jigs. I like the Leigh jig, but it's very expensive. Unfortunately, there aren't many hardware stores in town that sell dovetail jigs so my choices are limited.

Era of steam

My model steam train arrived in the post today. Along with a couple of turn outs and catenaries! I ordered some Sommerfeldt catenary to see what they were like. They are of excellent quality and built of metal like my steam train. I've seen other catenaries that were less expensive, but they were all made out of plastic. You definitely get what you pay for. Now I have to figure out how many I'll need to complete my layout. I'll have a lot to do over the winter, but for now I'll keep accumulating equipment and focus my time in the garden while the weather remains warm. And before you say anything, the catenary are for my ICEs, not the steam train.

Era III

I wonder if there is a help group for model train addicts. I was surfing the internet and was looking at the Eurorail Hobbies website. They had a limited edition Era III steam train on sale. I pined over it for a week. In the end, I couldn't resist and ordered it along with a Faller viaduct. I picked up a bunch of freight cars for it from Hobbytech. This is a sick disease. Here's the list of Era III rolling stock I've just acquired or ordered. God help me.

11457 (1/1) BR 89 Steam Locomotive with two heavy duty flat cars Era III15138 (1/1) Tank car Era III15199 (2/2) Freight train baggage car Era III
15270 (1/1) Freight train baggage car Era IV15501-08 (4/4) Box car Era III
15501-09 (2/2) Stake car Era III15644 (2/2) Tank car Era III/IV